Most well trouble around central Oklahoma shows up as one of a handful of symptoms. A pump that never shuts off, a pressure gauge that bounces, a breaker that keeps tripping, or a faucet that sputters air. None of these means the pump is finished. A good installer works from the top of the system down, because the cheap parts above ground fail more often than the motor sitting in the well.
How a typical rural OKC system is laid out
- Submersible pump and motor hanging on drop pipe inside the casing, below the water level.
- Pitless adapter on the side of the casing below the frost line, where the water line turns toward the house. Oklahoma's pump rules require a pitless adapter for any connection below ground or less than 12 inches above it (OAC 785:35-9-1).
- Well cap on top: watertight and vented, so insects, runoff and mice stay out.
- Pressure tank and pressure switch in a well house, garage or utility room. The switch starts the pump at a low setting and stops it at a high one.
- Control box on some pumps (three-wire models), holding the start capacitor and relay.
Symptoms and what they usually point to
Pump turns on and off every few seconds
Short cycling is the classic sign of a pressure tank that has lost its air cushion. It is hard on the motor, because every start heats the windings. See pressure tank replacement before anyone pulls the pump.
Pump runs nonstop and never reaches shut-off pressure
Possibilities include a leak in the buried line or the drop pipe, a worn impeller that can no longer build pressure, a stuck pressure switch, or a water level that has fallen close to the pump intake. The installer will usually check the line for leaks and read amperage at the control before deciding the pump itself is bad.
Breaker trips when the pump starts
Often a failing start capacitor, a shorted splice, or damaged wire in the well. Resetting a breaker over and over can finish off a motor, so leave it off after the second trip and call.
Air spitting from faucets, or cloudy water after a repair
Air can mean a leak on the suction side, a water level drawn down toward the pump, or a fresh repair that has not been purged yet. Cloudiness or a new taste after work on the well is a reason to test.
Dry taps or a pump that won't quit? One call gets you to a licensed pump installer near you. (405) 536-9841
Disinfection is part of the job
Under the state's pump installation standards, a well and its pumping equipment get disinfected with chlorine at 100 parts per million or more, held for at least two hours before flushing. During a repair, the installer can instead dose the well at 200 ppm for the length of the work. The rule puts that responsibility on the licensee (OAC 785:35-9-1). If an installer leaves without chlorinating, ask why. OWRB's owner guide also recommends a bacteria test after any well or pump repair (OWRB).
Repair or replace?
If the trouble is above ground (switch, tank, wiring, control box), repair is almost always the answer. If the motor is shorted, the pump is worn out, or it is pumping sand, the conversation moves to well pump replacement. Ask the installer to show you the readings that led to the call.
FAQ
Can I replace a pressure switch myself?
Oklahoma's minimum pump installation standards apply to anyone who works on a well pump system, licensed or not. Switch work also means live 240-volt wiring next to water. Most homeowners leave it to a licensed pump installer.
Why does my pump keep cycling?
The most common cause is a pressure tank that has lost its air charge, so it holds almost no water between starts. A leak or a bad switch can do it too.
How quickly can someone come out?
That depends on the contractor and how far out you are. Call, tell us your town and whether the house has any water at all, and the installer will give you a time.